
He definitely has the marmite factor, that Jamie Oliver but love him or loathe him, he can't be ignored. I love this messianic image of him from this month's Observer Food monthly. The interview covers his most recent TV project, The Ministry and talks about his relationship with that supermarket. Reading the comments on Word of Mouth, the Guardian/Observer's food blog really got me thinking. Is he a hero or just a dogmatic, swearing 'my-way or the highway' zealot?
Personally, I love him. Forget the campaigner, more than any other food writer, if I want a recipe for the whole family (including my fussy toddler) will enjoy or a one-pot delicious lunch with friends, it's Jamie's books I reach for. His barbecue sauce from Jamie's Kitchen was such a winner this summer, his Spring poached chicken from Jamie's Dinners embodies the dawning of that lighter but still warming food we all need post-winter and his mushroom bruschetta (Jamie's Kitchen) is the speedy supper for when you're really short of time.
He's criticised a lot for his work with Sainsbury's and in the article from Observer Food Monthly he refers to Sainsbury's as 'we', which the interviewer found strange - but after a decades work for them is it really so bizarre that he sees himself as a part of that organisation? Would he have been able to fund projects like 15 and the school dinners campaign without that cash?
The Ministry of Food, his most recent TV series has been knocked for seemingly having a pop at the working classes. One of the main protagonists featured in the series is a single mum of two, who until being taken under Jamie's wing had never cooked for her children and fed them chips and kebab meat for dinner every night. Whilst it's easy to point and mock, it's also easy to see why this woman was chosen as an example of where it's all gone wrong - people like this make good TV.
Still, the middle classes who do mock whilst tucking in to their M&S ready meal shouldn't feel too smug - the issues of obesity and the relationship we have with food are not easily defined by class. Not enough people cook, not enough people know how to cook but we sell hundreds of thousands of recipe books every year. We all buy the newest and latest games consoles for our kids, we all now have flat screen TVs on the wall but balk at spending over £1 for a loaf of bread or £4 for a whole chicken. We buy a litre of hot milk for £3 that tastes vaguely like coffee, cover it in caramel and then scream out in despair when we realise we've just consumed a third of our recommended daily intake of calories on the way to work. All Jamie is doing is holding up a mirror and showing us all, rich and poor, educated or illiterate that by and large we are all guilty and that we all need to change our food buying, cooking and eating habits.